KAKUSHÖHLE: Visit the cryptic cave where giants, fairies and devils from German legend once lived

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Explore captivating caverns that have kindled fantastical tales ever since Neanderthal settlers began sharing stories around the fire.

Caves have been hallowed places throughout human history. They not only provided shelter from harsh weather conditions but also served as sacred places of awe-inspiring power and wonder.

What’s special about the Kakushöhle in Dreimühlen, Mechernich is that it is one of the most geologically and archaeologically significant sites in Germany, which gave sanctuary to early humans as far back as the Ice Age.

Numerous important finds here have unearthed the story of our Neanderthal roots, and captivating legends have charmed the imaginations of settlers long since.

Shafts of light illuminate the dark hollows of the Kakus Cave

Awe-inspiring history

The huge rocks and boulders that make up the Kartstein were formed around 500,000-250,000 years ago and tower over 20m (65ft) above ground in their tallest parts. Within the rocks are three naturally formed cave spaces, which archaeologists refer to as the Big Church, the Dark Cavern and the Cold Hole. Inside and around the site, archaeological digs have unearthed many exciting artefacts from across the epochs.

From simple rubble tools indicating the first traces of human life around 300,000 years ago, there is evidence of Neanderthal settlers with advanced tool-making skills and hunting methods. Typically only 1.6m (5ft2) tall, the bones found at the site show that these dwellers used stone-tipped spears to hunt enormous ice-age beasts, such as mammoths, cave lions, giant deer, woolly rhinoceros and bison among others.

After the end of the ice age, the site was inhabited by reindeer hunters, who would stalk their prey with bows and arrows in the narrow pass below. Later still, the Romans used the plateau as a place of refuge to protect them from the Franks invading the Roman Empire.

You’ll find plenty of history, geology and archaeology facts (mostly in German) on the many display boards that are dotted along the beautiful walking route surrounding the Kartstein.

Photo showing a cliff face among tall trees with a cave opening

Entrance to the Kakushöhle set within the Kartsteinfelsen

But let’s dig deeper. Somewhere in the mists of time, legends began to emerge.

 

The Fairy Beauty and the Giants

To locals and visitors, the largest of the three caves is known as the Kakushöhle because according to legend, there once lived a giant named Kakus inside this cave. A little further along in the second cave, there lived a hunter with his lovely daughter, Fey.

Kakus was a huge brute, feared by all. He was over 5m (16ft4) tall and possessed the strength of a bear, pulling trees out of the ground with one hand and lobbing boulders through the air like they were made of marshmallows.

His scraggly hair reached down to his even scruffier beard, which was so long that it trailed around the filthy cow skins covering his grubby body. In his belt, he stuck racks of boar ribs, which he used to comb his beard.

Kakus was the terror of the whole region. He was grim and cruel, demanding offerings of money and belongings as tribute from anyone who wanted to pass through the valley.

Photo of rock formations in the midst of lush greenery

The winding path leads under and around the rock formations of the Kartstein

One day, a young shepherd was leading his lambs through the valley and, as always, Kakus commanded that he must give them up. The shepherd begged and pleaded with him not to take them, but the giant’s mind was made up. Suddenly, Fey appeared. She softened the giant’s cruel streak and charmed him into giving the lambs back. She even made him promise to stop holding up and robbing passersby.

Meanwhile, far in the East, there lived a goddess named Jola who bore a son named Hermules - although his name could also have been Herkules…more on that later!

Hermules soon grew into a strong giant himself, but he wasn’t gruff and cruel like Kakus. The people praised him as one of the strongest heroes they’d ever seen since he defeated every fighter who challenged him. He loved going out into the world on adventures, and he soon longed for a wife to come home to.

It wasn’t like he didn’t have options either. Many women far and wide adored him, but he couldn’t seem to find the right one to love. He begged his mother to consult the stars where to find the most beautiful maiden to marry.

Jola obliged, and the following midnight, she deciphered the omens in the mirror of the stars.

Oil painting of a woman holding a dish of high and looking for mystical signs in its water

Jola consults her oracle - much like Circe and so many magical maidens of legend. “Circe Invidiosa” (section) by John William Waterhouse,1892 via Wikimedia

Hermules must travel west, where the river Rhine flows and he must ask Father Rhine where to find the loveliest lady. Immediately, Hermules strapped on his sword and set off to find his destiny.

When he arrived at the Bodensee (Lake Constance), into which the Rhine flows, he called to Father Rhine and asked his question. Father Rhine suggested that he might be interested in the lovely Loreley of the Rhine, although he considered that the sweet Fey of the Eifel Forest may be even more beautiful.

But he told Hermules that pursuing her would be hopeless. Her father, the hunter, would never let her go and the giant Kakus would fight anyone who tried to take her away to the death.

Hermules relished a challenge. Instead of being dissuaded by Father Rhine’s words, he was only emboldened, boasting that he would easily slay Kakus if he dared to oppose him.

Photo of a stone relief of an old man's face surrounded by grapes and vines set into brickwork

Not at the Kakushöhle - this is“Vater Rhein” on the steps to the Tempelstraße in Bonn via Wikimedia

As soon as Hermules had set off to find the Eifel Forest, Father Rhine regretted what he had told him. Quickly, he called on one of his Nixes (water nymphs) to rush down the Rhine, to find those he had put in danger. She swam as fast as she could, and when she arrived, the Nixe encountered a young shepherd.

She begged him to hurry to the caves to warn Kakus and Fey that the giant, Hermules, was coming for them. Since he was the one whose lambs had been saved by Fey, the shepherd was glad to help and quickly delivered the message to them.

Kakus feared no one. Armed with his spear and club, he guarded the plateau from dawn until dusk, ready for the unknown giant’s arrival.

Finally, he caught sight of him and charged. Their weapons clashed against each other and so began the brutal fight. The two giants battled for hours, swinging club against sword, might against might.

Eventually, Hermules gained the upper hand. In his fury, he drove Kakus deep into the cave, where Fey had fled in panic.

Photo from inside a cave with shafts of light showing the way

Inside the Kakushöhle

In a desperate attempt to stop them, she threw herself between Kakus and Hermules. However, Hermules had already swung his sword high, and as he brought it down, he dealt a killing blow to both of them. The two collapsed and died simultaneously.

Severely wounded, Hermules left the massacre behind him and began to stagger back to the East. But on the way, he lost too much blood and never made it home. It is said that where we find the “Hermesstein” (Hermes stone) today, is where he finally broke down and came to rest.

 

Hermules or Herkules?

There is another version of the story where the hero who challenges Kakus is named Herkules.

He is not on the lookout for a maiden to marry. In this version, Herkules battles Kakus to protect the locals and Fey is missing from the story entirely. Although he still defeats Kakus, he returns to his home nearby and dies from his wounds after three days. The hill where the people buried their saviour is still known as Herkelstein.

It seems that this version blends with the Greek legend of Hercules and his twelve labours.

 

Fey’s fairy kingdom

Legend also tells that where Kakus and Fey were buried, there sprang forth a new stream named the Veybach, whose waters flow back to Father Rhine.

And it is said, that where Fey lived is the secret home of the fairy kingdom. Fey has also taken on fairy form when she is known as “Juffer Fey” - the fairy maiden.

In the Veybachtal (Fey stream valley), she is said to have made a limestone rock her home, where she ensures that the spring never stops bubbling and delivering deliciously fresh waters to the valley. She protects the fields, woods and hills, as well as the surrounding villages and animals.

Could this be Juffer Fey in disguise? Deer in the mists by @roylej via Unsplash

Juffer Fey is said to appear in various forms, as she roams the forest and wanders hazy valleys. As a billowing mist, she can appear as a proud maiden or as a venerable matron, or she may be disguised in animal form as a deer or hare, cat or squirrel, marten or weasel.

When the first leaves fall in autumn, she celebrates with a big festival to which she invites all the other fairies, including her seven daughters who watch over the surrounding villages Urfey, Eiserfey, Feyermühle, Burgfey, Katzvey, Satzvey and Burg Veynau. Humans are warned they are not welcome in the Veytal (Fey valley) during their festivities, with the local rhyme:

Opgepass (Watch out)

und nit gelaach, (and don’t laugh,)

hück ist aller Feyen Dag. (today is all Fairies’ Day.)

Oil painting of ghostly fairy spirits dancing in a circle through a twilit landscape

“Dancing Fairies” by August Malmström via Wikimedia

Where to find Fey’s fairy kingdom

To explore Fey’s spring and surrounding area, you’ll find a lovely circular walking route through the Veybachtal with a stop-off at the Kakushöhle here (Route 1).

Photo view across a green meadow into a valley with a tiny village

Veybachtal via Outdoor Active

 

The Diabolical Game of Cards

Another legend from the Kakushöhle tells a more cautionary tale about the price of greed.

Long ago, there lived two farmers near the Kartstein who loved to play cards. It was coming up to Easter week, and it was their duty to go to church like the rest of the village. But they decided to sneak off to play cards in the Kakushöhle, where nobody would find them.

They were enjoying themselves, when suddenly a visitor appeared and asked to join them. From the jangling in his coin purse, they could tell he had plenty of gold, so they welcomed him eagerly.

The new player was incredibly unlucky. While he kept losing, the farmers’ winnings piled ever higher, and yet, his purse didn’t seem to be getting any emptier. The farmers should have known that there was something mysterious going on, but the gold glinting in their eyes made them blind to their senses.

Finally, the newcomer begged them for a rematch and joked that whoever called for an end to the game shall become the devil’s eternal guest. Certain that his losing streak would continue and that his coin purse would soon be empty, the farmers laughed and agreed. They didn’t even hesitate to sign the deal in blood.

Hungry to keep winning, they played on and on in a feverish trance. By chance, one of the farmers dropped a card on the dusty ground. As he reached down into the shadows to pick it up, his eye caught on a dreadful sight. At the end of the stranger’s legs were a pair of hooves.

He nudged his companion and it dawned on them with terror that their opponent was the Devil himself.

Section of an oil painting of a man with pointed ears, nose and forked chin, wearing a red hooded robe and a devilish grin

Not the ideal chap to play cards with.“Mephisto - Emblem of Hell” (section) by Eduard von Grützner, 1872

Their blood ran cold and icy beads of sweat formed on their foreheads, as they realised their terrible fate. Ending the game meant being hurled straight into hell.

They would gladly have given all their freshly won gold away if only they could be released from this dark pact. But the devil simply licked his lips and grinned.

The game went on and on, past sundown and into the night. Days went by and although sleepless and exhausted, the farmers played on.

Meanwhile, the farmers’ wives had become worried that their husbands hadn’t returned home. They searched far and wide until finally, one of them found the cave. As soon as entered, she shrieked as she recognised the newcomer’s true devil form.

She ran back to the village to find the cleric and hurried back with him, explaining the dreadful sight in gasps along the way. Determined to liberate his two lost “sheep” from the clutches of the Devil, the cleric burst into the cave and commanded him to release them.

The Devil squirmed and hissed, refusing to let them go, but the cleric persisted. He raised his crucifix high and the Lord of Darkness began to howl at the sight of it. Now transformed into his satanic form, he exploded with rage, tore the cliff face apart and burst through it.

He fled and was never seen at the Kakushöhle again.

 

How to find the Devil’s escape

Head up the steps inside the main cave and at the top, you’ll find the narrow split in the rocks that is said to have been made by the Devil’s furious escape. Watch my video to find out more!

 

How to get to the Kakushöhle

By public transport

Take the train to Mechernich. From the train station walk east on Bahnhofsberg, cross over the railway tracks and head south on Friedrich-Wilhelm-Straße to the bus stop. Take Bus 830 (direction Nettersheim, Zingsheim Rathaus) and get off at the stop in Dreimühlen.

By car

From Köln/Bonn:

Take the A553 and A1 towards Euskirchen. Take exit 113-Nettersheim. Follow the B477 to Kakushöhle (Mechernich).

From Aachen:

Take the A4 towards Köln. Take the exit at Merzenich and follow the L264. Join the A1 towards Trier. Take exit 113-Nettersheim. Follow the B477 to Kakushöhle (Mechernich).

From Trier:

Take the A1 towards Köln until exiting onto the B410 at Dreis-Brück. Follow the K59 over the B258 and rejoin the A1 towards Köln. Take exit 113-Nettersheim. Follow the B477 to Kakushöhle (Mechernich).

Parking

There is a car park and café at Kakusstraße 1, 53894 Mechernich (50.544385, 6.659820). There is also a disabled parking space next to the café. If there is no space to park directly outside the café, you can park on the roadside opposite, where the spaces are marked with a line.

 

Where to eat at the Kakushöhle

Café Land-Genuss

Café Land-Genuss at the entrance of the Kakushöhle is a welcoming to grab a drink and a bite to eat

The Café Land-Genuss is a cute hut with toilets that can be accessed from the outside. There is indoor and outdoor seating under parasols. The café serves simple hot meals like sausages and chips, hot and cold drinks, and delicious puddings - try the Belgian waffles with chocolate sauce!

Just be aware that if you need lactose-free, gluten-free or vegan options, you might need to bring your own as choices are limited.

Photo of a Belgian waffle with choclate sauce and powdered sugar

Delicious Belgian waffle at Café Land-Genuss… Yum!

 

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