BURG ELTZ: 10 Reasons to visit Germany’s delightfully enchanting fairytale castle
Cover art own & image via Unsplash
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Hidden away, but certainly no secret, the gorgeous Burg Eltz is Germany’s most photographed castle - and for good reason.
Majestic, elegant and pristine, Burg Eltz’s impressive construction dates back to the 12th century during the high medieval period. It survived an early siege, remained unscathed by wars and withstood a fire, and yet it still looks like a dream castle out of a fairytale book!
That’s because it has been carefully looked after by the noble Eltz family, who has lived at and lovingly preserved the castle’s original splendour for 850 years.
Why is it a must-see?
Burg Eltz’s architectural beauty is one-of-a-kind. Although some sections have been restored over its long history, many of the original furnishings of the past 8 centuries can still be seen here on your visit.
It may not be the biggest castle, but there is so much history and legend to discover and enjoy!
Here are my top ten favourite legendary reasons to visit Burg Eltz:
Dreamy, wild mists at Burg Eltz via @cedericvandenberghe
1. Lose yourself in a medieval fantasy
What makes Burg Eltz feel so magical in comparison to other castles is its location. Set deep in the forest, the only way to reach it is either by a short walk from the nearest car park (or shuttle bus ride) or via a long hike alongside the Elzbach stream through the woodlands.
Whichever path you choose, you’ll find yourself turning a corner and - wow! The castle suddenly comes into view through the trees and takes your breath away.
As you leave the woodland path, this stunning castle view suddenly surprises you - via @johnygoerend
Surrounded by forests, cliffs and deep valleys, Burg Eltz sits like a gem atop its narrow rock, hidden away from the modern world.
You can easily get lost in a dream of daring knights and feisty princesses here.
2. An artistic love affair over hundreds of years
Burg Eltz started to become especially popular as a travel destination in the 19th century when painters, poets and Romanticists fell in love with its charm. The English travel writer Katharine Macquoid who visited in the summer of 1895 even called it "a fairy-tale in stone”.
Before her, the renowned French author Victor Hugo wrote of his approach on foot:
“We raise our eyes. The castle appears through this clearing, like a huge window in the forest. High, mighty, surprising, sombre. I have never seen anything like it.”
Over the 1800s, numerous artists, including the famous Romantic painter J.M.W. Turner, flocked to the castle repeatedly to make sketches for grand oil paintings, watercolours and etchings.
“Eltz Castle” by J.M.W Turner, 1841 - via Burg Eltz
One of the most famous British painters of the Romantic period, Turner painted and sketched a dozen views of the castle and surroundings on his visits.
“Eltz Castle by Night” by Caspar Johann Nepomuk Scheuren, 1856 - via Burg Eltz
3. Insta-worthy since 1866
Access to the castle was much harder back then. There was no proper road leading to the castle, so the only way was on foot across difficult terrain.
It wasn’t a quick tap-and-share to Instagram on your smartphone either.
In fact, the first photograph ever taken of Burg Eltz was in 1866 by English photographer Joseph Cundall, and he went through hell and high water to get it. He scrambled twenty feet up the steep bank above the road, grasping onto bushes whilst carrying his heavy photographic equipment.
These were the pioneering days of photography, so Cundall and his associates had to bring an entire tent with a fully equipped darkroom and chemicals needed to develop the images on glass plates.
When a sudden gust of wind swept his tripod and camera off the crag, lifted their tent and sent all their equipment and freshly taken negatives crashing down the hillside, they expected to find everything in ruin. But to their surprise, all their glass plates were still intact and they were able to get this amazing photograph published!
Oldest known photograph of Burg Eltz by Joseph Cundall, 1866, via Wikimedia
Nowadays, the location is not just popular with photographers looking for that perfect shot. It’s also sought-after for dreamy wedding and couples photoshoots - what better way to unleash your inner princess vibes and create your own fairy tale memories?
4. A guide to medieval high-rise luxury
Once you cross the bridge, step through the giant wooden gates and climb the steep stone steps, you’ll find a courtyard surrounded by dizzyingly tall walls. Because of the narrowness of the rock the castle was built on, the only way to extend was upwards.
So some parts of Burg Eltz have an impressive 10 floors - almost a skyscraper by medieval standards! This was necessary because, at its peak, 180 people lived here. Having 20 indoor toilets with rainwater “flush” was a huge perk for medieval times, even if it only worked when it rained.
From the courtyard is where your guided tour through the inside rooms of the 3 family areas of the castle begins.
Looking up above the entrance to the courtyard. (Own photo)
You’ll learn that when three brothers, Elias, Wilhelm and Theoderich von Eltz, acquired the castle in 1268, they created distinct living areas for their three separate families to all live together at the castle.
Your guide will show you the fabulous interiors with original furniture, weapons and armour, well-preserved tapestries and ornately painted walls and ceilings along with the history and stories of the Eltz family and castle.
Just be aware that no photography or filming is allowed on the tour.
5. Uncover the dangers inside and out
Despite their luxuries, medieval life can’t have been idyllic. Surviving “Burgfriedensbriefe” (Castle Peace Contracts) show that although the residents of the castle were safe from the outside world, family life inside its high walls could get pretty tense.
The Peace Contract laid out the rules, and more importantly, the consequences of misbehaviour - from murder, stabbing and fighting, to stealing another’s servants or employing mercenaries to harm someone on your behalf (unless they left the castle one day and one night ago - after that, it’s fine).
For many of the listed crimes, the punishment was for the offender to be expelled from the castle with their wife and children, either permanently or for a set period of time. This may not sound like a big deal, but you needed to be well-connected to be able to stay elsewhere. Your host had to be someone who could afford to keep you and your family, and who would be willing to endure the scandal of sheltering a lawbreaker.
Not a light in sight for miles - via @andikausg
Even leaving the castle and travelling through the forests was dangerous without an armed escort. There were no police and no watchful guards. Robbers, murderers and wild animals roamed freely, ready to take a nobleman’s coin purse - or his life.
Worse yet, legends tell that if you wandered too far towards the town of Müden by the river Mosel, you might even have encountered a huge, savage beast…
6. Beware the Kreuelssangler - a monstrous beast of myth
In the woods to the south, within an hour’s walk of Burg Eltz, it is said that there once roamed a dreadful, mythical beast. Huge horns crowned its head and overgrown tusks jutted out from its frothing jaws. As tall as a man, it took the form of a giant wild boar.
The beast was first officially sighted by French soldiers in a conflict with the Müden district in 1689 during the Palatinate War of Succession. The soldiers, who were gravely injured, reported they were attacked by a creature like a gargantuan wild boar with horns.
Yet who knows how long this feral being and its offspring had been roaming the forests south of Burg Eltz. Repeated sightings by farmers and winegrowers continued over the centuries, and time after time mysterious, giant animal tracks have been found.
According to folklore, the Kreuelssangler only stalks the forest on rare occasions to hunt its prey. But while it lies in wait, it turns dead-still and transforms itself into a massive tree root.
Wild Boar, from "Various animals" (Diversi animali) by Stefano Della Bella, 1641 - via Met Museum
So, if you find yourself on the Kreuelssangler Fabelweg (fable trail) one day, you might encounter its footprints or even find yourself face-to-face with the beast in its frozen tree root disguise.
Better take a sip of the magically protective waters of the Müden waterfall nearby - just in case!
7. Discover knights and their secrets
If wild beasts weren’t dangerous enough, there were plenty of bandits and murderers around, ready to empty the pockets of wealthy visitors. The knights of Burg Eltz hired themselves out as protective escorts to accompany affluent traders and aristocrats who arrived on the river Mosel to the prosperous Maifeld region.
The castle also gained earnt its gold by welcoming eminent visitors - for a price. If a visiting prince came to stay, he had to pay 40 Gold pieces - the equivalent of 25,000 Euros or 27,450 US Dollars today!
Within the castle, you’ll get to visit the Rittersaal (knight’s hall). This was where leaders met to discuss important matters. The carved jester’s heads under the beams were there to signify that everyone should speak freely and openly.
The “Rittersaal” - one of the most important rooms in the castle - via Burg Eltz
However, above the door is the “rose of silence” reminding anyone exiting that what has been discussed here was to be kept hush-hush.
8. The brave warrior maiden who haunts Burg Eltz
If the castle is not too busy with visitors, your tour guide may have time to tell you the legendary story of Agnes, the warrior maiden who bravely fought off a castle attack - against her dreadful fiancé!
Agnes the Warrior Maiden
A long time ago, one of the Counts von Eltz had a daughter named Agnes. She was a beautiful and clever girl. Although she was her father’s pride and joy, he did wish that she were a bit more inclined towards the duties of a god-fearing maiden, who would spend more time in the chambers with her mother and ladies-in-waiting.
But Agnes was a wild thing, a tomboy who was much more excited about climbing and wrestling with her many brothers, than embroidering and chit-chat.
She was always fast on her brothers’ heels, but they loved her and could barely refuse her enthusiasm to learn everything they did. It wasn’t long before she’d learnt to ride, wrestle and swordfight as well as they could.
As she matured into a young lady, she took on many responsibilities at court. She began to master the fine demeanour expected of her and to control her temperamental outbursts.
But there was one prospect over which she could not be tamed.
While still in the crib, her father had promised her hand in marriage, as was customary. Such engagements usually served political interests or to increase wealth, or simply out of old friendships. In her infancy, her father had chosen the Junker (Squire) von Braunsberg, a boy slightly older than her and seemingly, a good match.
It should have been a fairy tale marriage.
But over the years, during the rare visits from the Braunsberger family, Agnes couldn’t find anything to like about the boy. He seemed dull and moody, never wanted to play and never wanted to get involved, no matter how her brothers tried to treat him as one of their own.
As they approached the marital age, Agnes couldn’t bear the squire any more than before. He hadn’t lost his cold-blooded manner and become pretty arrogant. Anyone he considered beneath him wasn’t worth so much as a glance, yet he was eager to use his smarmy charm on anyone above him.
Despite her many pleas, their wedding day finally came. A big celebration had been prepared at the castle, and Agnes tried to make the best of her miserable fate and enjoy the festivities.
The squire didn’t like this one bit. With a skinful of wine, he growled at her that she should be giving him more attention. She countered that he was far more interested in drinking than trying to sweetly sweep her off her feet, as he should.
Agnes fights for her castle
Insulted, he grabbed Agnes in front of all the guests and forced a kiss on her. She tore herself away and slammed her hand on his cheek with a loud clap. He stormed out in a rage.
Agnes’ father and brother followed to confront him, but he had already fled the castle. Her father saw him now as a coward and suspected that he would not let this humiliation go unpunished.
He brought in an entourage of knights to protect the castle and readied his weapons, waiting for an attack. But it never came, and finally, he released his knights and let everyday life return.
This was precisely what the squire had been waiting for.
With his band of men, the squire attacked the poorly defended castle. Agnes heard the commotion outside, but instead of hiding inside the fortifications, she pulled on a breastplate, helmet and sword and threw herself into the battle.
She fought her way through to the squire and clashed furiously with him until he lost his sword.
Agnes lives on in spirit
She believed her victory was assured, but the squire loosed an arrow at short range, which pierced her armour straight into her heart. As the defenders cheered their victory, they lifted her helmet and recognised their beloved Agnes, who had fought valiantly to defend the castle.
Some say that the squire fled and was never seen again, others say that he too was killed in the battle. Either way, his remorseful, restless spirit is said to haunt Agnes’ burial mound.
But the good soul of Agnes still drifts gracefully through the castle courtyard at night.
Images: (1) “Joan of Arc” by John Millais, 1865 - via Wikimedia; (2) “The Reluctant Bride” by Auguste Toulmouche, 1866 - via Wikimedia; (3) Knights in battle from “The Romance of King Arthur” by Arthur Rackham, 1917 - via Wikimedia; (4) “Hervor’s death” by Peter Nicolai Arbo, 1892 - via Wikimedia
Look out for the breastplate Agnes wore during the battle on the guided tour. You’ll see it displayed high on the wall in the nursery room towards the end of the tour.
9. Be dazzled by lavish treasures
The Treasure Vault is home to some of the most significant pieces in Europe.
Examples of exquisite gold and silversmithing, porcelain and glass in the form of sculpture, jewellery, drinking vessels, ornaments and weapons gleam from their display cases, and some are so quirky that I can guarantee there is something here that you’ve never seen before!
There are even whimsical automatons that could be filled with wine and used as drinking games.
A drinking vessel from around 1600 in the shape of the goddess Diana the Huntress. It has a wind-up mechanism to let her ride around the table and wherever she stopped the guest could take a drink from the stag’s or dogs’ heads. (Own photo)
10. Discover a dreamy hiking trail like no other
If you really want to experience Burg Eltz like the adventurers of olden times, then the most beautiful way is to walk the Traumpfad Eltzer Burgpanorama (Castle Eltz Panorama Dream Trail). This 12.7km (7.9 miles) circular hiking trail will take you from the nearby village of Wierschem through the stunning nature reserve surrounding the castle.
You’ll cross open fields with incredible views across the agricultural Maifeld area, walk narrow rocky paths into woodlands, travel alongside the rushing waters of the streams Elzbach and Wierschemer Bach, and climb up steep hillsides to incredible lookout points.
It takes approximately 2 hours to the castle, after which you can stop off after 1 hour for a drink, meal or snack at the restaurant Landhotel Ringelsteiner Mühle, then uphill for the last 1 hour back to the starting point.
I walked the dream trail to get to Burg Eltz and it was absolutely worth it! Tiring, but a wonderful experience and hands-down the best way to be enchanted by it.
Find out more about the dream trail here.
Nearly there! Crossing the final bridge on the Traumpfad (Dream Trail) before climbing the incline to Burg Eltz. (Own photo)
How to visit Burg Eltz
Good to know
Burg Eltz is incredibly popular, especially during the summer holidays and weekends! So if you want to avoid the crowds, try to arrive when the castle opens at 9:30 am (or even before) to take in the surrounding beautiful landscape - it’s worth it!
The only way to visit the castle is with guided tours, which are included in the ticket price and are well worth it.
Tours start every 15 minutes in German.
Tours are also offered in English. Ask for this at the entrance and you’ll be directed to where you can join an English language tour group.
The duration of the tour is 35-45 minutes.
In high season, the courtyard fills up quickly and the tours feel a bit more time-pressured to enable the tour guides to get each group of 30 through the exhibit as soon as possible.
For groups of 20 or more, it is recommended to use this form to book ahead.
Photography and filming are NOT permitted inside the castle during the tour (even without flash). You can only take photos and video footage outside the castle, inside the courtyard and within the treasure vault (all without flash or additional lighting).
Flying Drones are NOT permitted anywhere outside or above Eltz Castle, nor anywhere within the nature reserve Eltz Forest, which extends 1.5 km around the castle. The castle is a private property and home.
Dogs are permitted on the site including the courtyard, but not inside the castle rooms on the tour.
When to visit Burg Eltz
Opening times
Burg Eltz is open daily from 1. April - 1. November
Opening hours are 09:30 - 17:30 (last entry at 17:00)
You’ll need around 2.5 - 3 hours for your visit starting from arrival at the car park.
Ticket prices
Check the Burg Eltz website here for the latest ticket prices.
How to get to Burg Eltz
By public transport
Train from Koblenz + On foot:
Take the train to Moselkern if you wish to walk the remaining part of the journey to Burg Eltz on foot. The train journey from Koblenz takes around 30 minutes, and the walk from the train station to Burg Eltz takes around 60-90mins.
It is a 5km hike on unpaved paths and is signposted with “Burg Eltz” along the way. There are some steep inclines as you approach the castle, so reasonable walking health and good footwear are advised.
Check the train timetable here.
Train from Koblenz + Bus:
Take the train Hatzenport train station if you’d prefer to take the bus to Burg Eltz.
The Regio Bus Linie 365 runs from 1st April to 1st November to the car park near the castle. Get on at the bus stop outside Hatzenport train station where the bus departs twice every hour. The journey duration is around 25 minutes.
Check the bus timetable here.
By car
The nearest car park to Burg Eltz is here. From the car park, walk for about 15 minutes to get to the castle or use the shuttle bus.
Where to eat at Burg Eltz and nearby
There are 2 self-service cafés: the Oberschänke am Burgbrunnen and the Unterschänke an der Linde.
At the cafés, you’ll find hot and cold drinks, cakes, ice creams, sandwiches and simple hot meals. The hot meals are classic crowd-pleasers like chips, sausages and burgers.
Vegan, gluten-free and lactose-free options are pretty minimal, so you may need to bring your own or time your visit to eat at one of the restaurants in the nearby villages.
If you are walking back to Moselkern or hiking the Traumpfad trail back to Wierschem, you can stop off for a drink, meal or snack at the restaurant Landhotel Ringelsteiner Mühle to keep you going.
This restaurant serves a range of small bites, traditional German main meals along with vegetarian and vegan options, as well as a selection of fresh cakes and coffee - something for any time of day!
Ringelsteiner Mühle is a great place to stop off to grab a drink and a bite to eat
Alternatively, explore these delightful food and drink options in the neighbouring areas.
In Wierschem:
Located on idyllic forest outskirts only 2km from Burg Eltz, this cosy restaurant offers handmade burgers as its speciality.
In Münstermaifeld:
Enjoy modern German Cuisine in a farmstead that was also once used as a puppet theatre!
In Moselkern:
For wine connoisseurs, head to the family winery harvesting vineyards on the sunny banks of the Mosel for over 275 years.
