SNAEFELL MOUNTAIN, Isle of Man: Visit IoM’s highest peak and uncover its fairy secrets
Photo by James Qualtrough 🇮🇲 on Unsplash & icon Satyr by Grégory Montigny from Noun Project (CC BY 3.0)
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Ride a charming Victorian tram to the summit, look out for fairy enchantments and see the whole Isle of Man in one day.
Back when magic folk still inhabited the Isle of Man, the greatest wizard of them all was named Caillagh ny Faashagh, the Prophet Wizard of the Wilderness.
Like any decent wizard, he was a hermit. He lived in a hole under a rock in the mountainside and he would roam the wilderness in the dark. Occasionally, he bellowed at passersby and scared the living daylights out of them.
One day, he shared this prophecy:
“The Mountains of Mann will be cut over with roads and iron horses will gallop over them, and there will be an inn on the top of Snaefell.”
— from “Manx Fairy Tales” by Sophia Morrison
Funnily enough, he was right.
Since 1907, the Isle of Man has been home to the Manx TT and, since 1923, the Manx Grand Prix motorbike races. It is one of the most dangerous motorcycle racing circuits in the world.
Every year, motorbikes “gallop” over the winding roads that cut across mountains, fields and valleys for two weeks at the end of May into June and again at the end of August into September.
And there is indeed a café that was once an inn on the peak of Snaefell Mountain.
A pretty good prophecy, I’d say, especially considering that the wizard foretold this whilst he was in the shape of a goat! Apparently, he liked to transform himself into goats quite regularly… 🐐
But that’s not the only eerie tale about Snaefell Mountain.
Like so many sites on the Isle of Man, Snaefell is home to other intriguing folk tales and fairy lore.
If you ride up to the peak on the Snaefell Mountain Railway, you’ll hear plenty of interesting historical facts, but not about the mountain’s folk tales and fairy lore - so read on!
Why visit Snaefell Mountain
View westwards over Sulby Reservoir taken through the tram window. Own photo.
Snaefell gets its name from the old Scandinavian inhabitants of the Isle of Man and means “Snow Mountain”. Rising to 2,036 ft (621 m), it’s the tallest of the 12 rugged peaks on the island.
While its height may not offer the level of challenge that serious, technical climbers may be looking for, it’s still an excellent choice for hill-loving hikers looking for a trek over rugged terrain.
But for casual visitors, like myself, you’ll have just as much of an adventure travelling to the peak in the old-world charm of the Snaefell Mountain Railway - more on that later!
Snaefell’s closeness to the sea gives it a prominent and impressive appearance. The view from the peak is well worth the ascent and is truly unique.
It is said that from Snaefell, you can see all 7 kingdoms: Isle of Man, Ireland, Scotland, Wales, England, the Celtic God Manannan’s domain of the Sea and even Heaven itself.
How to get to Snaefell Mountain
Walk to Snaefell
Looking towards Laxey village on the coast - one of the suggested starting points for hiking to Snaefell. Own photo.
If you’re a hiker, you have the option of 3 popular routes of varying duration and difficulty. Keep in mind this is a steep hike on rugged terrain that can be slippery when wet. There is often no clear path and there are a few stiles to cross. Sheep roam freely here, so dogs are best kept on lead.
How long does it take to walk to Snaefell?
That depends on where you choose to start. These are 3 popular trails to choose from, starting at:
The Bungalow
Duration: just over 1 hour. Distance: 1.85 miles (2.97 km). Rating: Easy
Laxey
Duration: 4 hours approx. Distance: 7.56 miles (12.16 km). Rating: Intermediate
Sulby Glen
Duration: 5-6 hours approx. Distance: 10.9 miles (17.54 km). Rating: Expert
Find out more about these 3 suggested routes on Komoot including maps and route details.
★ Star tip:
Walks to Snaefell are not recommended on the motorcycle racing days for 2 weeks in late May - early June and late August - early September. When the races are in progress, you won’t be able to walk across the A18 mountain road which is part of the trail to get to the summit.
Tram to Snaefell - the Snaefell Mountain Railway
The adorably vintage Victorian tram car that takes you up to Snaefell summit. Own photo.
If you want to explore Snaefell the delightfully quirky and easy way, ride up the mountain on the Snaefell Mountain Railway.
This is a charming Victorian tram car that has been taking visitors the 4.5 miles (7.2km) up the mountainside since 1895.
The Snaefell Mountain Railway departs from the lovely coastal village of Laxey, a few miles north of Douglas. On my visit to the Isle of Man, I was staying in Laxey in an adorable Shepherd’s Hut AirBnB (which I loved and highly recommend!) so it was only a short walk to Laxey’s centrally located Snaefell Mountain Railway station.
But you can easily reach Laxey from Douglas by car or by taking one of the island’s other historic railways - the Manx Electric Railway.
★ Star tips:
Bring an extra layer! When I went in April, Snaefell summit was 7 °C colder than Laxey - and the wind coming off the Irish Sea was bitter.
In summer, bringing sunscreen, hats and sunglasses is a must.
The last tram back down leaves at 4:30 pm.
Even before then, the carriage fills up quickly, so make sure you start queuing early.
Avoid trying to get on at The Bungalow stop. It’s often full of passengers from the peak.
Is the Snaefell Mountain Railway worth it?
The Great Laxey Wheel is the largest working waterwheel in the world and was built in 1854 to pump water from the Laxey mines. View from the tram window on Snaefell Mountain Railway. Own photo.
Yes! It’s a real, vintage experience rattling up the mountain tracks in this little wooden tram car.
If you’re a Romantic like me, you’ll love sitting on the wooden benches, watching the scenery pass you by as the audio guide over the tannoy points out interesting locations and local history.
You’ll see the Great Laxey Wheel spinning its giant red spokes, the crumbling stone buildings that once belonged to miners, the entrance to the old Snaefell zinc mine - the site of the greatest Manx mining disaster - as well as dramatic views down the Laxey valley.
As the little carriage climbed higher, I wondered whether we would witness any clues pointing to fae encounters that have been recorded here. I looked for any nooks and crannies that might be hiding the elusive “Little Red Woman” - Ben Veg Carraghan.
Ben Veg Carraghan
The mysterious “Little Red Woman of Carraghan” is a phantom being that travels the hills of the Isle of Man. In folklore, she has been spotted on Carraghan, Beary, the Sulby highlands, North Maughold and Snaefell. She either flits along the tiny winding paths followed closely by her goose companion, or she sits in a sheltered nook on the hillside, busy at her spinning wheel.
Some believe she is an embodiment of the old pagan goddess known as Holda or Perchta from Germanic lore (also as Bertha in English lore). If that’s true, she’d more likely be roaming the lonely paths at midwinter, since she is a Yuletime deity.
Perchta is the darker aspect who is fond of punishing the lazy by slicing open their stomachs and filling them with straw and pebbles… So since I had a lie-in the day before after the long drive and overnight ferry to the Isle of Man, I’d rather not cross her path!
The one old man who was the only one she ever spoke to, never dared tell anyone what she said, no matter how much they pressed him.
Oddly enough, Holda, the friendlier aspect of this deity is believed by some to have evolved into the Nursery Rhyme character of Mother Goose. By this point, she’s not just being followed by a goose, but riding it with her red cloak flapping behind.
Image: Illustration from “Mother Goose” by Gordon Robinson, via Flickr under CC by SA 2.0
After the tracks cross the main road and approach The Bungalow stop, the track winds around the summit in a spiral, showing 360-degree views across the whole of the island, all the way out to sea.
On a clear day, it’s absolutely stunning!
Is Snaefell Mountain worth it?
From the summit across the Irish Sea towards Ireland with Sulby Reservoir and Tholt-Y-Will Glen below. Own photo.
Again, yes! If you love the feeling of freedom, the wind in your hair and the freshness of the air that you get at the top of a mountain, combined with spectacular views in every direction, then the trip up to Snaefell is well worth it.
Be aware there is no grand attraction when you get there, just the Snaefell Summit Restaurant and Café, the two radio towers and the compass plate to familiarise yourself with. But that didn’t take away from the experience for me at all.
I took my time wandering around the plateau to get a view of each of the neighbouring countries across the Irish Sea for around half an hour. If it had been warm enough, it would have been a perfect place for a picnic.
And for sunsets or stargazing, it must be incredible.
On the southeast side, the capital of Douglas was hidden by the hills, but I could guess the vague direction of the Old Fairy Bridge from the day before. Even further, south-west lay The Sound and the Calf of Man - an adventure yet to come.
On the west side, I could see shaggy sheep happily grazing below and a little further in the valley, the Sulby Reservoir and Tholt-y-Will Glen - another so-called fairy glen I couldn’t wait to explore.
It crossed my mind whether the satyr-like, fae creature known as the Fynoderee would still be lurking in these woods, as documented by A.W. Moore’s “Folklore of the Isle of Man” in 1891.
There must be something weird about the western side of the mountain because even in the 20th century a group of walkers climbing up here had a bizarre encounter.
The Fairy Encounter on Snaefell
In August 1922, Geoffery Hodson was climbing Snaefell mountain with other walkers, when they came across a whole crowd of fairy “little folk”.
He described in great detail what he saw. They were only between four and six inches tall, but they had the appearance of adult men and women in miniature. Unlike English fairies, they had no wings and didn’t flit around with “vivid vitality”.
Instead, he saw them moving calmly and gracefully, with a soft and dreamy expression in their eyes. Their faces wore a perpetual smile.
The ladies wore long dresses of bright mixed colours, whereas the men were clothed in shiny material that looked like silk. The favourite colour among all of them was a royal blue of electric brilliance.
Hodson said that he could hear them making a sweet flute-like music which came from several directions at once. In their countless numbers, they danced and played on the hillside.
“They are extremely gentle and courteous in their relationship with each other, and express love rather than joy”, he said.
“Theirs is a very peaceful, quiet, dreamlike existence.”
— from “Fairies at Work and at Play” by Geoffrey Hodson.
Image: “In Fairy Land - An Elfin Dance” By Richard Doyle, via Wikimedia, Public Domain.
Sounds rather lovely, doesn’t it? Not at all like the tales warning people of fairy dangers.
Perhaps visiting on a bright, clear day with plenty of other people around didn’t exactly increase my chances of a magical encounter like this!
When to visit Snaefell Mountain
The Isle of Man may be a country in its own right, but even its independence and fairy enchantments don’t exempt it from the soggy, unpredictable weather of the British Isles.
Weather
It probably goes without saying that Snaefell is really best experienced on a clear, sunny day or with light cloud cover, if at all possible. I got super lucky - the following day, I drove by on the main road crossing the mountainside on the way to Tholt-y-Will Glen and Snaefell summit was literally inside a cloud. You couldn’t see anything but mist.
Driving the A18 across Snaefell on a misty day is like being inside a cloud. Perhaps ‘mist’ should be added as an 8th kingdom you can see from Snaefell! Own photo.
Time of year
Between April to September, the Isle of Man has temperatures averaging between 10 -17 °C, with rainfall tending to be highest in August & September. Check Weather2Travel for more weather details.
However, if you’re not into huge crowds and the constant revving of motorbikes wherever you go on the island, check the dates of the Manx TT and Manx Grand Prix Motorcycle Races before you book your trip. These are held every year, usually from the last bank holiday in May into early June and on the August bank holiday into September, respectively.
I went at Easter and I was surprised how quiet it was. I was expecting a lot more families holidaying here, but perhaps the Isle of Man is still a bit of a hidden gem. For a “getting away from it all” break, it’s great!
Where to eat on Snaefell Mountain
Last stop - the peak! The station and Snaefell Summit Restaurant and Café seen from the tram carriage.
Snaefell Summit Restaurant and Café is the only one on the peak. But there is also the Victory Café near The Bungalow below.
The Summit Café is fairly large with plenty of seating. It’s a “grab a tray and shuffle along” type of servery, with standard options like tea and coffee, soup, pies, hot sausage rolls, sandwiches, snacks, cakes and of course scones with jam and cream. You won’t find a big variety of vegan or intolerance-friendly options, except maybe a couple of items.
It’s nothing too fancy but it’s a nice place to sit and warm up with a mug of tea while waiting for the tram to return.
They also hold special events in the evening, such as an Indian food and music night with Bollywood dancing, a cowboy-themed live music night, an African food night and a Stargazing night. The Isle of Man prides itself on its exceptionally clear night sky and stargazing opportunities.
Check out the Summit Café’s upcoming events on their Facebook page here.
Driving past Victory Café on the A18 on a much cloudier day. The trail behind the tram leads up the peak - if you could see it! Own photo.
Unfortunately, I didn’t visit the Victory Café close to The Bungalow stop and main road, but it’s really popular with bikers and has a trendier vibe with its sofas and motorbike-themed interiors. Find out more on the Victory Café Facebook page here.
Just be aware that if you’re travelling back down on the Snaefell Mountain Railway, it can be tricky to get on from this stop, as it’s often already full of passengers from the summit.
The Bungalow stop on the way to/from Snaefell summit. Own photo.
So should you visit Snaefell Mountain?
If you:
have a day of good or reasonably clear weather with high clouds to enjoy the views to their fullest
enjoy a day out in nature and the feeling of freedom in the fresh mountain air
want to feel like you’re on top of the world (or a whole island, at least)
love riding a vintage tram that feels like something out of Harry Potter!
— then yes, you’ll love a trip to Snaefell Mountain!
Discover Isle of Man
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Find Other Magical Destinations on the Isle of Man
Further reading
Manx Fairy Tales by Sophia Morrison
Fairies at Work and Play by Geoffrey Hodson
The Folk-Lore of the Isle of Man by A.W. Moore
